"Out of 5 Fieros I have owned all of them have had the scratches
on the drivers side window. You know the lines all the way up
and down the window. I was just wondering what causes this and
is there a way to prevent this?"
The tracks the windows ride in and the felts that seal the outside of the
window glass. It's a thing that is not unique to Fiero's... F-Body cars
suffer the same. I think that because the window glass is curved and
supported only from the bottom, instead of being supported from the edges
like other cars.
Guess it just is.
From: Curt Martin
"Can I fix my window?"
Cerium Oxide that come in a powder will polish it out. You mix it with
water into a slurry and polish with a very dense felt pad at a very slow
speed (1500 rpm). I believe JCWhitney has it, or some hardware/auto
stores.
From: Clark
"Can I prevent this from happening again?"
The problem is that inside the door are two felt pads that are rivited onto the their respective holders. Once the felt is gone the rivits
will scratch. The only fix is to open the door, remove the glass for access and replace the pads...
Rich Delzer
"Is there anybody out there who have replaced a door window. Do I have
>to drill out the large pop-rivets that hold the plastic stoppers?"
YES - and of course the plastic rollers too.
"does anyone know where I can get the big rivets that GM
uses for the body panels? Can't get them here."
Those 1/4" rivets require a special tool to set. If you have
the tool, most any auto body or auto glass supply place should have
the rivets. I have never tried to buy them as I do not have
the proper tool to set them.
I "fudged" when I replaced the window on my '87 GT. I put a
1/4 inch stove bolt and a nut in the rollers with the window
out. I "then hot glued" the 1/4" nut to the back of the
plastic rollers (the door skin side), removed the stove bolt,
coated the threads with Loctite and inserted the bolt from the
inside of the door to secure them. The plastic stops are in
a position that you can just "nut 'n bolt" them on after the
glass is inserted. Just be sure your bolts are not too long!
All worked fine for me.
From: Randy T. Agee
 | First get a copy of a Haynes or better yet the Helms manual. Either one
tells you were the adjustment screws are for the door window.
Chiltons does not have this information. |
| Next remove the inner door panel. |
| Remove the moisture barrier. |
| For reference, there are two adjusters on the top of the door frame (10
mm bolts). These control the tightness of the window and help keep the
window from falling too fast. If you loosen these, the window will
wobble and be loose. So make sure they are adjusted correctly and the
window is not wobbling when rolled up and so the window does not rattle
when in the up position. (note: don't make these adjustments too tight
or the window will get scratches from the pads, tighten them enough to
keep window from rattling.) |
| Procedure 1:
| With this reference, look for the vertical rail that the window rides
in, located near the latch of the door. At the top of this rail there
are two 10mm bolts. Loosen both bolts. (you may have to loosen the
bottom pivoting 10mm bolt) Now take the rail and push out towards the
outer door panel. while pushing you will notice the top of the window
(note: window is rolled up) will move inwards. While holding the rail
in the position you think is right....tighten the two bolts on the
vertical rail. |
| try the door many times. you may not get it right the first few tries.
| This back rail controls the inward and outward movement of the top of
the window, mostly the back half of the window. To move the front
portion of the window in, you have to adust the front rail in a similar
manner. But I suggest you adjust the back first because you get the
most bang for the buck. |
| If you look at the Haynes this adjustment procedure will be clearer. If
needed I can post a picture on my web page or send it as an attachement
to those that need it. |
| |
| Procedure 2:
| Now there is a limit adjuster that controls the height of the window in
the up position. These adjusters are on the upper part of the door
panel, but NOT on the horizontal part near the dew wipe. If you loosen
the front or back, you can roll up the window to the position you want
it to stop and then tighten the stoppers. Usually this is all set from
the factory and shouldn't need adjusting. Haynes explains it too. |
|
| I recommend that you look at all the adjustments on the door and try to
imagine what they do before starting. Use the Haynes and my note to
help you discover the problem and how to adjust the window. If the
window is not rolling up far enough then do procedure 2. If the window
is
rolling up fine but it sticks outward too much then do procedure 1.
If the window just rattles when up, try the first suggestion of
adjusting the
two adjusters that are next to the dew wipe. |
